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How to Eat Like an Automat Patron
Posted Jul 6,2009

Automat-455 While writing the June issue’s “Flashback” column on Automats, I was tickled to learn that a real live automat still exists in New York City-—not part of the original Horn & Hardart empire but a modern-day effort to re-create the joy of buying prepackaged food stored in tiny compartments.

Alas, BAMN! Automat, as it was called, is no more! Just as the issue came out, I discovered that New York’s only automat had served its last meal.

Automats do still thrive in Amsterdam. But that’s a long way to go for prefab food.

Yet there is a way that 21st-century American foodies can experience the taste sensations of the original Automat, if not the ambience. Marianne Hardart, great great-granddaughter of Automat co-founder Frank Hardart, shares some of the dishes in her book The Automat: the History, Recipes, and Allure of Horn & Hardart’s Masterpiece.

For our readers, we thought we’d offer a couple of options. And if anyone has the Holy Grail of recipes– the much-loved Automat rendition of Salisbury Steak–please share!

Chicken Pot Pie

Serves 6

1 chicken (3 to 4 pounds)

1 medium yellow onion, roughly chopped

3 ribs celery, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1 cup frozen peas

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice

2 medium carrots, peelded and cut into ½-inch dice

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon celery salt

2 cubes chicken bouillon

1 9-inch prepared pastry crust, about ¼ inch thick

Rinse the chicken with running cold water. Place the chicken, onion, celery, salt, ½ teaspoon of the pepper, and enough water to cover in an 8-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Cover, and simmer about 1 ½ hours, or until the chicken is fork-tender. Reserve 3 cups of the broth, and remove the chicken to a large bowl. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, or until it’s cool enough to handle. Discard the skin and bones from the chicken, and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Cook the peas according to the package directions. Drain and set aside.

In a 3-quart saucepan over a high flame, heat the potatoes, carrots, and enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are fork-tender. Drain and set aside.

In a 1-quart saucepan, bring the reserved broth to a boil. Remove from the heat. In a separate saucepan over low heat, blend the oil and flour. Stirring constantly, cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the mixture is smooth and golden brown. Continue to stir and gradually add the hot broth. Cook 5 to 8 minutes, until it’s thickened. Add the remaining ½ teaspoon of pepper, celery salt, and chicken bouillon. Remove the saucepan from the heat.

In a large bowl, combine the chicken pieces with the gravy and the reserved vegetables. Pour the mixture into a 2 ½ quart casserole dish. Place the pastry crust loosely over the chicken mixture. Trim the pastry edge, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Fold the overhang under and press gently all around the casserole dish to make a high stand-up edge.

In a cup, beat the egg yolk with 1 teaspoon of water. Brush the pastry with the egg yolk mixture. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the crust is well browned.

Baked Beans

Serves 8 to 10

1 pound dried navy beans, rinsed

1 large yellow onion, chopped (about 1 cup)

4 slices bacon, diced

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2/3 cup molasses

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 ½ cups tomato juice

Salt to taste

Place the beans in a large saucepot and cover with cold water. Let stand overnight at room temperature. Drain. Place the beans in an 8-quart saucepot, add fresh water to cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until the beans are almost tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F.

Return the beans with the other ingredients and the 1 cup of reserved cooking liquid to the pot.; mix Mix to combine. Pour into a 9 x 13 x 2 baking pan or a Dutch oven. Bake, uncovered, until very tender, approximately 4 hours. Check the beans occasionally while baking and add water if necessary to prevent the mixture from drying out. Season with salt and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Cup Custard

Serves 8

1 quart milk

½ cup sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

6 large eggs

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

In a medium bowl, combine the milk, sugar, and vanilla, and mix well. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until well beaten. Stirring constantly, gradually add the milk mixture to the eggs. Divide evenly among 8 custard cups.

Place the custard cups in a 13 x 9 x 2 baking pan. Fill the pan with hot water till it comes halfway up the sides of the custard cups. Bake in the preheated oven 40 to 45 minutes, until a knife inserted in the center of the custard comes out clean. Remove the cups from the water and let stand at room temperature about 20 minutes. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours.

—Marc Silver

Photo: J. Baylor Roberts, National Geographic Stock
Posted by Marc Silver | Comments (1)
Filed Under: Food, Pop Omnivore
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Comments

Alice Dubiel
Jul 6, 2009 3PM #

When my father took us West Coast kids to NYC in the 60's, he felt a trip to the automat was an essential stop. My husband will love these recipes, and probably my son, too. Not our usual food, but very classic.

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