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Don't Take Away My Picon Punch
Posted Aug 27,2009
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A couple of years ago I wrote a story for National Geographic about regional foods. Not the standard mascots like Philadelphia Cheesesteak or New England clam chowder, but the obscure, sometimes incongruous but often delicious concoctions that have managed to stay within state borders.

There are plenty of offbeat delicacies associated with just one state; a huge pastry called kringle in Wisconsin, for example, or the toasted ravioli cherished in Missouri. I recently learned in a New York Times article about a Utah favorite called a pastrami burger, which as it sounds, is an over-stuffed rendezvous of two red meats. There are also lots of dishes linked to what food historians call "micro regions." It's a fairly loose term, and can be used to describe an area within a state, or larger areas that may involve a couple of states or more.

Early in my reporting I realized that people become strangely emotional when they are asked about their favorite foods. It’s as if Moon Pie or a conch fritter acts as the proverbial Madeleine, sparking a rush of memories—and a growling stomach. Some of my sources became defensive, some got excited; pretty much all of them were nostalgic. I spoke to one woman in Hawaii about Spam Musubi, a sort of sushi made with Spam, for at least an hour. Did you know that there's a festival dedicated to this canned pork product every year in Waikiki? That’s devotion! And a bartender from Nevada was so enthusiastic about Picon Punch, he mailed me everything I needed to mix the potent drink beloved by many of the west's Basque émigrés. Some North Carolina residents waxed poetic in emails they sent me about livermush, a culinary mishmash of pig parts and cornmeal. I thought it sounded pretty revolting, and I spoke with other Southerners who agreed. From California to Connecticut, everyone I talked to had an opinion about their local food, and where to find the best of it.

I can’t believe I missed pastrami burgers in Salt Lake City, but I did learn about that capital’s passion for fry sauce, a mixture of ketchup, mayo, and spices, ubiquitous in fast-food joints. Who knew such culinary quirks existed in Utah? I definitely did not.

So what lesser-known edible secrets hide within your region? Was there something you loved to eat as a kid but can't find anymore? Massachusetts, Montana, Kentucky, I have no reports yet of your regional specialties. Readers, this National Geographic reporter wants to know: What’s your state’s fare?

—Catherine Barker

Posted by Catherine Barker | Comments (6)
Filed Under: Atlas of Eating, Culture, Food
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Comments

Bill
Aug 27, 2009 5PM #

You mentioned the toasted Ravioli that are so popular in Missouri. We also love our Gooey Butter Cake in St. Louis. (I learned the hard way when I went away to college that Gooey Butter Cake is a regional delicacy.) We also have a local pizza (some may call it a travesty) with a thin cracker-like crust and a topping of Provel "cheese." But my favorite St. Louis delicacy is known as the St. Paul Sandwich. It's served only in cheap Chinese take-out joints. It's a fried egg foo young patty served with lettuce, tomato and mayo on white bread. Nobody seems to know how it got its name. It's the best greasy egg foo young sandwich you'll ever have.

Rebecca Reeder
Aug 27, 2009 5PM #

Since we just marked the 50th anniversary of Hawaiian statehood, it seems only right to suggest that any discussion of food include some island goodies: Macadamia nut pie, mango chutney, and plenty of fresh fish. I also like the dessert served at The Mauna Kea called 'Mauna Kea Snow."

Karen Aaland
Aug 27, 2009 5PM #

Have you heard of this one?
From my childhood summers spent in Michigan. Never heard of it anywhere else, "Googled" it and found the description and history:

Blue Moon is an ice cream flavor with bright blue colouring available almost exclusively in the Upper Midwest of the United States. (Michigan/Wisconsin) The flavor marshmallow-sweet and fruity

NM
Aug 27, 2009 5PM #

My friends from Kentucky talk about the "hot brown." The name is questionable, but the recipe looks OK.

http://southernfood.about.com/od/kentuckyrecipes/r/bl10424b.htm

Cinde Reichard
Aug 27, 2009 5PM #

Shoo Fly Pie. Or as my grandmother called it "Crumb Pie". Her recipe called for a handful of this and a dollup of that so it came out slightly different each time. It's Pennsylvania Dutch or "Dutchy" and it's main ingredient is molasses. My grandmother used Karo syrup "in the blue bottle". The crumbs were made of flour and Crisco mixed together by hand and randomly plopped into the syrup mixture forming gooey little pockets when baked. Perfect with a good cup of coffee.

Greg Luce
Aug 27, 2009 5PM #

For this Texan it's gotta be chicken-fried steak!

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