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Two 'Top Chefs' Talk About What's Cooking
Posted Nov 20,2009
Top-chef-combo
Like our many foodie readers, Pop Omnivore likes a weekly dish of Top Chef. And we’ve actually had the chance to sample the real-life food of two of this season’s contestants: Eli Kirshtein (above, right), whose cuisine is impressively inventive and absolutely, positively delicious, and Bryan Voltaggio (above, left), whose food is so good it made us want to weep uncontrollably. So we decided to take a moment to ask these cheftestants about their philosophical approach to food -- and also about reality TV.

Kirshtein, 25, who had to pack his knives and go in this week's episode, is the executive chef at Eno, an Atlanta restaurant whose décor is Euro-farmhouse meets urban chic (meaning big paintings of dice on some walls). In case you’re wondering, we ate: superb barley risotto with truffle oil and fennel fritters, sumptuous moist chicken that married beautifully with an array of wild mushrooms, and … a beet parfait, which had earthy undercurrents of flavor but a texture that seemed a bit gelatinous.

How he got on Top Chef: The main thing is if you’re meant to be on the show, you’re meant to be on the show. People think there’s a blueprint and a master plan, but at the end of the day there’s gotta be a good feel. There’s an open casting call. You’ve got to have a little bit of luck and good references, and look good in front of a camera.

Food ethics: I do purchase a whole lot of local ingredients—predominantly produce. But sometimes the food you’re getting locally isn’t good for the sake of food ethics. For me, what is really important is that the animal is treated well during life and that it is slaughtered in a humane way.

A favorite ingredient: I’m always excited about beets. I think the flavor is really interesting; it’s the most genuine and authentic flavor of iodine and iron. It has elements of everything from oysters to rare meat in a flavor profile. Oftentimes I like to serve oysters with beets for surf and turf.

Why so many people hate beets: Canned beets are not very good. They’re soaked in a liquid that doesn’t taste very good, and they’re cooked to death.

Why he serves duck foie gras: I picked Rougié as a brand because of the way they treat animals. The ducks are force fed 14 to 16 days as opposed to 17 to 27 or 28 days. These animals are [totally] healthy previous to those couple of weeks [of force feeding]. And they’re raised totally naturally and antibiotic-free. Next, Rougié is really big on environmental ethics. Their plants run on—pardon my French—duck [excrement]. They power their plants [in Quebec] with the waste of the birds.

Is he just like he seems on TV?: At end of the day, anything you said, you said. The producers may ask leading questions, but if you say it, you say it.

Does that mean we know him well?: You’re on for a minute or two minutes each week, and people define you. They think they know who you are. People are like, “Oh, we connect.” I’m like, “How do we connect? I don’t know you. I don’t think I’m connecting with you.”

His words of wisdom to fledgling chefs: The main thing is to remember [that] this industry is not a get-rich industry. And second, pay your dues. Kids want to go through culinary school, come out, and be executive chef in a restaurant. It takes time. And hard work pays off.

Bryan Voltaggio, 33 is chef and partner at Volt restaurant in Frederick, Maryland. Located in a 19th-century brownstone mansion, Volt is a fine-dining establishment that’s quickly becoming a destination for foodies. Voltaggio's menu is ruled by what's local, what's sustainable, and what's in season. Last month we drooled over succulent grilled arctic char and a beet salad with goat-cheese mousse aerated with nitrous oxide that made it as fluffy as a cloud.

How he got on Top Chef: There's a downloadable application you fill out, and then you send in a video. My brother [Michael Voltaggio, 30, chef de cuisine at The Dining Room in Los Angeles] and I talked and decided to do it together.

Were the brothers afraid they wouldn’t both make it?: Well, yes, the thought crossed our minds.

Food ethics: To me, it means buying either local, sustainable, or organic ingredients. I want everything I buy to fall under at least one of the three. Of course it's not always possible, but we try. Sustainability for me is about sustaining the product, yes, but also the environment, and the economy in the community where it comes from.

Favorite ingredients: Whatever comes through the back door. Every day I have farmers coming to my back door, dropping stuff off. Just an hour ago, a Mennonite farmer showed up with all of this pristine produce. It's so cool. Having a relationship with your farmer is extremely special.

On whether he will continue to serve duck liver: It's a big issue, and something I'm doing more research on.

Does Top Chef accurately portray him and his relationship with his brother?: I believe it does. Obviously my brother and I are big competitors, but we're supportive of each other as well. We're on the phone daily, talking about food.

His words of wisdom to fledgling chefs: It's about honing your craft, and humbling yourself. Look, I'm a chef because I have to be a chef [to support my family]. But I'm a cook at heart. I love to cook. I spent six and a half years in New York not making a lot of money. I didn't run for the money or the title. Don't get caught up in that.

Thanksgiving plans: I promised my family I'd be home. I've got a Bourbon Red turkey.

—Marc Silver and Catherine L. Barker

Posted by Marc Silver | Comments (0)
Filed Under: Food, Pop Omnivore, Television
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