Tim Gunn gave a new set of marching orders last night to the Project Runway crew: They had to use green fabrics. No, not the color green—green as in environmentally friendly.

The contestants were all for it. “The amount of dyes that the fashion industry as a whole pumps into the rivers and oceans of the world is pretty gnarly,” one said.

The Green Guide has a fine primer on green fabrics. But to get the scoop on last night's episode, we spoke with Eric Sauma, manager of Mood Designer Fabrics in New York City, where Project Runway contestants do their shopping.

So what is an organic fabric?

To be certified organic, it’s how the plant or animal is raised. There’s no killing. If it’s silk, they don’t kill the worm. For cotton, no pesticides, nothing harmful to the environment.

Are prices higher for these fabrics?

For the most part, they’re more expensive. The process of raising the plant is more expensive. Let’s say 20 percent more on the average.

Are the fabrics different to work with than regular fabrics?

No, no, they’re the same type of fabrics. Some can be dry. But for the most part, it’s the same feel, the same weight.

How does the color compare?

To be fully organic you have to use organic dyes. In my opinion, [organic fabrics] aren’t as saturated in color. Some mills are working on it. But a lot of the colors aren’t as rich.

Are you seeing a lot of interest in organic fabrics?

There’s definitely more interest. There was a lot of interest from our L.A. store, asking for it two years ago. Last year, a lot of New York-based designers began asking. A lot of designers are doing their full line in organic fabrics.

Which fabrics were used on the episode of Project Runway?

The majority were hemp. It’s easy to work with. I wish they used different varieties. Out of 100 organic fabrics we have, they only used a dozen. But it was a hard challenge. The models grabbed the colors they liked.

The judges loved a dress made of a champagne-colored silk [pictured above]. Michael Kors called it “chic.” Was that the natural color of organic silk?

It wasn’t even silk, it was hemp!

-Marc Silver and Helen Fields

Comments