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'The Amazing Race' Puts Sheep Posterior Front And Center
Posted Nov 20,2008

Last week, The Amazing Race featured a glistening soup made with chunks of sheep rump. Some contestants slurped. One gagged. A vegetarian tried but failed to take it down (thus losing out on a chance for the $1 million prize). And here at Pop Omnivore, we wondered. What is this dish all about? And what's up with using the backside?

First of all, a bit (more than what Borat taught us) about Kazakhstan. It is the ninth-largest country in the world. Its official language is Russian. Its state, or national, language is Kazakh. It is the world's seventh-largest producer of wheat. Its biggest city is Almaty, where the soup slurping took place, and the capital is Astana.

But what about its food?

Having never been there myself, and living in a city (and country, for that matter) that is sorely lacking in Kazakh restaurants, I've yet to get a taste. But I have learned that horse meat and sheep meat (aka mutton) are eaten in abundance, and that dumplings and pasta tend to round out most meals. The national dish is something called besparmak, which translates to "five fingers." It involves hunks of horse meat and noodles, and is meant to be eaten with the hands, hence the name. Another horse-derived favorite is a drink called kumis--this is fermented mare's milk. And then of course there is that soup. Recipes for it are elusive, but the star ingredient, as we know, is the back end of a sheep—specifically, a fat-tailed sheep. According to The Oxford Companion to Food, the tail on a fat-tail "may be a wide, beavertail-like flap, or a long kangaroo's tail with fat deposits along its length, or any intermediate shape. Among the world's hundreds of fat-tail breeds there are many odd curls, S-shapes, and wedges...the tail can be home to a substantial slab of fat with a texture somewhat like bacon, though of course with a muttony aroma."

That said, the soup is considered a delicacy, and I'm not one to knock another country's cuisine and pride therein. In fact, I'm curious about the taste and would love to read a recipe. Has anyone out there tried it? Can anyone share a recipe? May I please skip the fat-tail and just use bacon?

-Catherine Barker

Posted by Catherine Barker | Comments (3)
Filed Under: Television

Comments

Audrey
Nov 20, 2008 10AM #

The Kyrgyz also consider Besparmak (spelled slightly differently) to be their national dish. We had our first authentic taste of it in a yurt at Song Kul Lake. It was Ramadan, so the families of the neighboring yurts came together each evening to break the fast. A goat was killed for the occasion and EVERY bit of it was used in the dish - boiled homemade noodles (think thick spaghetti), goat bits, a bit of goat broth and then everyone mixed it together with their hands. My husband and I tried a bit, but I can't say it was a culinary highlight. (The full story is here: http://www.uncorneredmarket.com/2007/10/goat-and-five-fingers/).

As for fat-bottomed sheep, they get the highest price at the animal markets across Central Asia. In Karakol, Kyrgyzstan, the traders told us that the wealthy Kazakhs come across the mountains and buy them up to take back home (thus, increasing the price for the Kyrgyz). We ate gallons of mutton soup during the three months we stayed in the Stans, but missed out on this specialty. Maybe the people we stayed with weren't wealthy enough to afford this type of sheep...darn!

Rebecca Reeder-Hunt
Nov 20, 2008 10AM #

It does not sound tasty --at all. However, like you, that is not to criticize the cuisine or customs of other countries.

AD
Nov 20, 2008 10AM #

Mmmmmm.. Mutton!!! hope you didn't cut any of the fat off

Sorry had to fit a Seinfeld Reference in there....

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